23 June 2014….. Well I did originally write this a week ago
but then the internet resolution went out in all of Dapaong for 3 days and I
had to make it back to village…
“When an African tells you ‘no problem’, that’s when you
begin to worry.”
(p. 285, “The Village of Waiting” by George Packer)
--> Priceless advice!
--> Priceless advice!
So, yes, I finally read one of the only books written about
Togo… That is George Packer’s “Village in Waiting.” I had heard mixed reviews from current and
past volunteers because on one hand people think he’s too negative and on the
other hand I and few others find him critical yet insightful. It’s kind of scary how much hasn’t changed
about Togo since the author served in 1982-83.
His critical lens and interpretation of local customs and traditions are
interesting particularly for current volunteers in the same country. There was one first year PCV who said he/she
refused to read it because she didn’t want to “give him any more power than he
already has… Plus he ET’ed (early terminated—left before his 2 years of service
were finished).” But I can only imagine
how much harder his service was in comparison to ours. I mean, as you’ve all read I have my fair
share of difficulties and injuries, but he lived here without a cell phone,
laptop, iPod, or even internet… All he had was a Peace Corps issued Vespa and a
radio to keep him connected to the outside world. And we think the roads and development are
bad now, but reading through his tales and talking to RPCVs and locals, the
80’s “toughed it” a lot more. I feel
like I connected to the book and read it at an interesting time in my service-
the end of my second year. If you read
it before or during your first year, I think people won’t appreciate it as much
because they’re still getting used to the country and people themselves and
trying to stay as positive and open as possible. But by the second year, you are more
accustomed to everything and everyone and are able to hear criticisms without
it judging your own service too much.
Well, that’s what I think at least!
Interesting quotes from the book:
“…You just have to expect things not to work out, and you
won’t get frustrated.” (p. 189)
à
The author is referring to the extent of flexibility a PCV should hold when it
comes to cultural differences in work ethics, time management and prioritizing…
And just how, with limited resources and with a people whose schedule is
wrapped around the rains and fields, things just don’t go as you planned. So plan heavily and update frequently, do
much follow-up along the way (and after) and keep low-expectations but high
spirits. Better to be pleasantly
surprised than to be let down/frustrated.
“ … Eating in markets and riding in painful positions with
local people on muddy back roads provided no direct line to the ‘real Africa’…
You never get out of your white skin; you only experience Africa as a white on
a tight budget.” (p.194)
à
Negative but truthful. Peace Corps goals 2 and 3 are both about
cultural sharing and understanding but one can never be 100% “integrated” (as
it seems the VRF would like you to be) when you started out as a stranger. Even people from the South who come to live
in the North have problems integrating.
It’s partly due to the fact that Togo has so many local languages
ranging from the Ewe of the Maritime Region to the Moba/Mosi/Gourma of the
North. Even some of the Moba people are
different! There are different dialects depending on prefecture. My host family comes from Naki-Ouest and
their Moba is slightly different from the Moba of Tami-même.
And now I’m reading, “The power of one,” by Bryce
Courtenay. It’s a book about a white boy
growing up to be a boxer in racially segregated South Africa. For anyone that’s read the book or is bored
enough to look it up, the book starts by diving right into interesting,
“…Before my life started properly, I was doing the usual mewling and sucking,
which in my case occurred on a pair of huge, soft black breasts. In the African tradition I continued to
suckle for my first two and a half years, after which my Zulu wet nurse became
my nanny.” He goes on with battles with
bullies, family dysfunction and odd but quirky adventures. I’m not done reading yet but I’m definitely
enjoying it. Not many young boys can
befriend a chicken…
The Scoop:
REPLACEMENT?:
There is a new system in place for Peace Corps Togo, where
the volunteers get a say in their post! Unfortunately for the COS’ing PCVs
(volunteers getting ready to leave, i.e. me) who want a replacement, we don’t
find out if we are getting replaced until literally the week before their post
visit. So they, and we, find out the
first week of July and then they get shipped off to visit the weekend of the
second week of July.
*update: Just found at 8pm the other night that I’m actually
not getting replaced… I’m not too happy about it but I can deal. I hope that my activities are that much more
sustainable now without another PCV to take them over.
DESKS:
All 90 desks and 7 chairs have been DELIVERED! Literally the
day before I was leaving to Lomé for COS conference, the menusier (carpenter)
was finally ready! I took a few snap shots and had to run back to Dapaong to
get ready to leave down south but they were there and beautiful. The guy who painted the names of the donors
put a list of the names on each desk, starting on one side and finishing on the
other. I had envisioned one name per
desk, but his idea was much better, so it was a very pleasant surprise. So now that I’m back, we will hold a
reception to celebrate the work done, take photos for the donors and then after
the thank you’s the project is officially done.
Oh and not to mention that I closed out the funding too! In Lomé, after
the GAD meeting, I got to work on the closing paperwork. It wasn’t easy but by the following morning,
everything was complete, turned in, reviewed and even the photos were given as
well. As I was finishing uploading the
photos, the COS sessions had started so I missed a bit of the “welcome and
debriefing” but I was sure to ask around for what I missed.
GARDEN:
Still waiting on that mason… To be continued.
In the mean time, I’ve been sharing some of my seed bank
with my friends and coworkers.
CAMPS:
I nominated 8 students, 2 apprentices, and 5 trainers. But there are only 2 trainers, 2 students and
2 apprentices going off to programs this year.
One camp, Scientifille, is apparently not even happening… I still have
to break the news to Simane; he’s going to be slightly heartbroken but I’m sure
he’ll recover. At any rate, I’ve got
some Tami folk traveling and learning this summer! Now I just gotta make sure
they all get there okay.
I had a little mishap on the communication corner for Camp
Joie but the girl student got there just fine.
The work partner I wanted to send, unfortunately didn’t make it. That leaves 1 trainer, 2 apprentices and 1
student for Camp Unite to go.
WOMEN’S GROUP:
They are LEGIT. The
week after exam week, we held a meeting and we read through and signed the
papers for them to be a government recognized social development group. That same day, Larba, the Women’s Conference
candidate really surprised me and stepped up to the plate. I think she sensed I was being short with her
prior because she was all over the place and not committing to things. And then she changed. What more can a PCV ask for? Well so, when
the ladies were stirring the liquid soap, she decided to pull out some of her
Women’s Conference materials and do a training session! She had these photos to
spark discussion with prompts on the backs with topics such as hygiene, gender
equality/equal education, and HIV/AIDS.
I didn’t understand most of what was going on because it was in Moba but
the translation sounded good. What’s
most important is that they were talking about these things in general, and as
a group of peers without any pressure from their husbands or anyone else.
Also, all women but one have completed the loan program and
paid back the entire 10,000 Francs!! So I printed certificates and photos for
each of the 15 women to surprise them at our last meeting this past Wednesday… They
thought we were just making soap again… Just soap? Hah! I even bought cookies
and a “dicro” of Tachakpa (the local brew) to polish off the ceremony. I Moba danced until my hip hurt … again!...
and it was really a blast. I’m so glad
it all came together so well. Oh and
Emanuel Gobine made an appearance as well to help me talk about the future of
the group with the women, and also to help translate and take pictures with
certificates. The PHI people who funded
the microloan project would like me to keep the program going and keep the
money in Tami, so Gobine and I were trying to figure out a way to make it most
feasible and so we had a long meeting about the situation before I whipped out
the party. We had them decide as a group
that they would meet at least once a month at the end of the month to make
soap, collect loan funds, and count the group “caisse” (money case). We also decided that we are not investing/
trusting the established microloan companies that come/stay in Tami because
several people have complained about the companies claiming to have no funds to
give back when the client wants the savings! And they continue to collect
money?? I’m so glad I live in the USA, where there are at least bankruptcy laws
to prevent further damage. Anywho—we decided
to buy a nicer case for the money because it’s currently an old coffee tin that
I’ve been holding on to for the past 1.5 years.
And this case must have 2 locks, so that the 2 treasurers each get a key
and then the secretary holds on to the case.
That way, the 2 keys and the box aren’t in the same place at the same
time. Well, it’s the best we can do with
what we’ve got! The women have been
impressing me with our last few meetings, so I really have my fingers crossed
that the group is sustainable, especially with Emanuel Gobine checking on them
every so often.
GAD:
We have officially passed the torch! We held a meeting on
the day before COS conference and it went really well and the new team seems so
awesome and motivated. I have a good
feeling about this bunch and I can’t wait to see updates of wonderful future
projects when I’m back in the States!
HOUSE MGMT:
This torch is also officially passed! As of June 1st,
Winter was the only house manager (we decided that 2 were no longer necessary),
and as of July 1st, Chelsea will be the one and only!
COS CONFERENCE:
One of the fastest trainings I’ve ever had. And also, one with the best food! And A.C.
and hot running water in the hotel rooms! Oh, and yes, we learned things too… I
feel a bit more capable to properly leave the country where I’ve spent the last
two years but I’m still somehow in a mind limbo. And I feel a new appreciation for our Country
Director, Lauren. As a PCV way up North,
I feel like I haven’t had the pleasure of really getting to know her or how she
works, so this was a nice treat for me.
She’s an RPCV from West Africa (so props already), and she is super
straight-forward and to the point. She’s
what PC Togo really needed, not to offend any priors or anything but she’s
doing a great job and handling the PCVs well.
And to wrap up the conference, the hotel was on the beach and had a
private pool… it was SO nice to be able to swim again!
LAST “CONSEIL”:
This meeting was quite anticlimactic and a bit rushed but it
went alright overall. I had just gotten
back from COS conference the night before and had to moto back to Tami just for
the meeting and then head back to Dapaong because the Bike Tour started the
next morning with a 2-3 hour ride to Timbou.
And lucky Mr. Basile got to do all my work for me, as titulaire of the
5ieme class I have to find class averages and such. Because he was the last teacher to finish
with the block of report cards for my class and he didn’t finish before I went
to Lomé, he didn’t have much choice but to help me. So he had to calculate overall averages for
the semester and school year, then do statistics by gender on success
percentages (exams, class and overall).
What a sweet heart =) … So after the meeting, we went to my bar where
the director bought us a round and served up some grub that he prepared at his
house and brought over. Everyone seemed
pressed to leave and do other things, but at least we got some last moments
together as a group. Although they were
big pains in my butt, I still think of them as my big brothers and will miss
the buggers.
I’ve printed up photos for them as well and plan to hand
them out at the distribution of the report cards on Thursday. I wrote a note to each of the teachers on his
group photo in English, each one starting, “To my big brother Mr. ….” and ending
“Love Larba Kristina”.
BIKE TOUR:
9th June: Ride via bicycle from Dapaong to Timbou
(30 km)
10th -11th June: Sessions with women
in Timbou on rehabilitation of malnourished infants
12th June: Bike Ride from Timbou to Tami (40 km)
13th-14th June: Sessions with women in
Tami on rehabilitation of malnourished infants
15th June: Bike ride from Tami to Bogou (45 km)
16th-17th June: Sessions with women in
Bogou on rehabilitation of malnourished infants
18th: Back to Dapaong!
….
In general, it was a great experience with a few bumps in
the road. 10 days on the road with both
Togolese and Americans and females and males would be rough for any group, but
we got through it! I learned a valuable lesson to not let your Major pick your work
partner but instead pick someone that you know and trust and have worked with
to do a project like this. I was a bit
disappointed by the sexist, lazy old man assigned to me but he turned out not
so bad in the end and hopefully he can pick up the slack and do some great
M&E (Monitoring and Evaluating) work when I’m gone. The hardest part was hosting 9 people in my
humble village abode! I think my favorite part besides playing with babies and
hanging with the pals, was the bike riding! This time of year, Savanes is
really beautiful, and the back roads that we took we just breathtaking. And we made some pit stops and field trips
that were pretty fun.
I went for an unexpected hike the other day… up Mount Tampialim… And found bamboo in the
Savannah of Togo! The experience was cool, but boy did I sweat a beautiful
stain in my panye dress from the heat and the workout of the mountain.
My second to last VRF (Trimester Volunteer Report) is
completed and turned in. My last one
will probably only add the bike tour because this VRF reporting period was
until May 31st and the tour started June 9th. I like when I have finished one because it
makes me really look at what I’ve accomplished… Kind of like my blog posts,
except less photos.
My boyfriend, Djato, is closer to having a “real” (paid)
job! After what seems like months of waiting, the government finally got their
act together and announced the regions of all health workers. He was super disappointed to find out they
assigned him to Maritime (the region furthest south). So, being the awesome person he is, he went
down to Lomé and requested to switch with someone who was in the opposite
situation… And it worked! He got back from Lomé last night and told me that he
has to wait on a letter from the Lomé office and they can place him up here in
the Savanes region. So by July 1st,
he should be moving somewhere to work that isn’t too far away and where he can
speak Moba! He’s just such a hard worker and good person, I don’t know what to
do with him… *************JUST KIDDING?..... This just changed as of Sunday
June 29th…. He got a call that his case/request was reviewed and
rejected. They want him to go all the
way down south, near Aneho, and spend a few weeks working there before making
any kind of changes. He’s super disappointed
and we are both pretty drained emotionally and monetarily over this
ordeal. I really don’t know where we
stand now. It’s my last month in country
and my best friend won’t be in village or anywhere close by… He wants me to
come down and stay with him for at least a week or two but he doesn’t even have
a room yet, or a plan to eat or anything.
And I still need to wrap up things up here! Well I will be going down to
Lome on July 7th to do my COS medical exam on the 8th and
come back. Maybe I can swing in a visit
to my Djato?...
I’ve accepted to take on 2 part-time jobs when I get back to
NM. One is helping Dr. Stephanie with a starting
a new program and the other is nanny-ing for the twins of this couple who are
friends with my Big Sis, Gretchen. Both
of those sound manageable for adjusting back to American life at the same time…
Now I need to find SOMEPLACE TO LIVE!! Since Gretchen moved to Santa Fe with
Mark, it’s too far to commute and there are more job opportunities in
Albuquerque for me. If anyone knows someone
in Albuquerque looking for a roommate (or who has a spare couch for a bit) let
me know! *** Or maybe I will live with them?? IDK!!
In general, the last few months have been odd. I have probably felt just about every emotion
humanly possible… Happy, angry, sad, excited, anxious, calm, tired, wired… I’m
so bipolar these days! And speaking a minimum of two languages a day makes my
head that much more screwed up... There is just a little over a month left and when
I think about it, my head becomes a cloud of thoughts scattered from Togo to
New York to New Mexico. I’ve started
cleaning things in my house and giving/ throwing things away and that’s helping
literally sort through things in my head as well.
And now I shall end this entry with a few Buddhist quotes
that I read in my “Buddhist Wisdom” book, while using my latrine…
“You are criticized if you talk too much. You are criticized if you talk too
little. You are criticized if you talk
just enough. No one escapes criticism…Train
your mind to carry the weight of criticism.”
“There is no fire like passion. There is no grasp like hate. There is no trap like illusion. There is no flood like craving.”
“You are what you think.
Pain will follow bad thoughts as certain as happiness will follow good
ones.”
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