I’m writing this post backwards with South Africa (the most exciting news) first, then Alssya’s trip in Togo and finally followed by the gap between my last blog post and my travels.
SOUTH AFRICA
The flight from Lome to Ethiopia was very empty, so Alyssa and I were able to each spread out over 3 seats and enjoy the ride. In Ethiopia, during our night layover, Ethiopian Airlines put us up in the Hilton. THE ADDIS ABABA HILTON HAS THE BEST DINNER BUFFET I’VE EVER HAD IN MY LIFE. And we didn’t get too much sleep because we were too busy roaming around the hotel grounds. The next flight as more full, but we sat next to some interesting people. I sat next to this retired white South African math teacher, who told me a bunch of info on S Africa and her travels abroad.
The arrival and first night in S Africa was a bit rough… Let’s just say that when the manager’s away, the employees will play (and not be helpful in anyway). MoAfrica lodge had some awesome reviews and we were pretty disappointed in the lack of any attention and response. There was no toilet paper in the room, the place was freezing and when asked for heat, it took until the manager to get there (over 3 hours) until both were completed. Even ordering food (and we didn’t have many other choices because the place was in the middle of nowhere) was difficult and the end result was menial.Also the man who picked us up from the airport was bitter towards us and tried to make us feel guilty because our flight had a delayed arrival (our fault?). We did however make a new friend, named Rosie, whom we played scrabble with and vented to.
Our first night at the Viva Safari Lodge was awesome though. The room was great and we had a nice welcome, unlike the folks at the MoAfrica lodge. We also went on a “night game drive”, where we drove around in a “Jeep-like” vehicle until we spotted animals and then drove as close as we could to them. At one point we where just feet away from this lone male ELEPHANT, eating away and paying no mind to us. We also saw some Nyala, buffalo and other wild animals. Although because Dusk and Dawn are the hardest times of the day to capture photos, we didn’t capture any great photos for you all that night sorry!
The next morning, we went on an early a.m. “bush walk” with two guides and two other guests. We were instructed to keep in a straight line, like little ducklings, and to keep quite unless we saw something (in which case we had to whistle or make a non-animal-disturbing-noise). We tried tracking a female leopard but she had confusing prints that led nowhere (smart kitty), and then we stumbled upon elephant tracks. The tracks themselves were interesting; the foot prints had a big circle with a smaller circle on top like the number “8”: signifying the “ballet dancer” step of the elephant (the back foot follows the same path as the front, like a ballerina walking in line), and the “trunk print” was a large curved line, which usually represents when the elephant is tired and dragging it’s trunk looking for or just after eating food (the heads on African elephants are the heaviest part of their bodies). Our guide did his job well and we found ourselves steps away from two adults and a baby elephant. They weren’t too happy with our presence, so we backed off quickly, uphill (if one is uphill, it is less likely that the elephant will charge you, as it is more work for them). Then, we went down to the river and saw a hole bunch of HIPPOS! They were hanging out in the middle of the river and we were gazing from the river edge, no problem at all. After breakfast, we had downtime at the lodge, so we played “travel scrabble” with another guest until we had to pack up and eat lunch. At lunch a bunch of monkeys came around to scramble for scraps of leftovers… And we played with them, of course. Alyssa was feeding one a banana when it snatched it from her and I got nervous; so she continued to “play” and I grabbed a slingshot to scare them, just in case they got any bright ideas that might hurt my friend. After lunch we went on another “game drive” through the reserve and saw a few animals including zebras and jackals. Right when we got back, there was a wild giraffe just hanging out outside the lodge! Alyssa walked right up to it, and so did I, to get a picture with the young male. And immediately after, we found out that a single kick or head butt from the giraffe can kill/ seriously injure a lion… But hey, we were fine! After that, we got transferred to our next lodging: A tree house! Hopefully I can get a picture up on here eventually to show this awesome little house we had for a few days. We had a nice dinner and then on the way to our rooms, a male “bull” buffalo blocked our path… So we spent at least 45 minutes coming up with ways to get around the bull, until finally it strolled back into the woods on its own.Our friend, Zoey (the 19yrold world traveler), has a pretty awesome video of us throwing rocks in an attempt to diverge the buffalo and then running up the steps of a nearby tree house (like little girls) to evade the potential wrath.
Alyssa talked her way into getting us on the morning bush walk with our friends, and we pretty much just saw our guide eating a bunch of “dun”. It was fun and a pleasant stroll. After breakfast was our safari ride through Kruger National Park! We saw all the “Big Five” (named so because they are the most dangerous animals to hunt) minus the leopard. At one point we saw these lioness’ eating a rhino (it had been stripped of it’s horn by poachers and left for dead, so the park rangers shot him to avoid prolonging suffering and the lions got a free meal), giraffes, zebras, elephants, vultures, hippos, baboons, a family of white rhinos, we passed through a herd of buffalos crossing the road, and while eating lunch in the park dining facility I enjoyed watching animals passing by the fenced in area. After this exciting ride, we passed out in our tree house until dinner, and then met new friends again from all over the world (we got so many emails this trip!). Also, our new friend, Wim from Holland, let us use his camera to use for the day because the camera that my friend Sebastian let us use ran out of battery (Sebas gave his to us in Lome before leaving to S Africa because the one Alyssa brought ran out of battery and she forgot the charger, and the battery that gram sent for my camera was the wrong size). So that made it camera number 5 on our trip (the camera Alyssa brought, two disposables that I had, Sebastian’s, and Wim’s). We would just put her memory card into the borrowed cameras and take more photos until we exhausted them.
The next morning we went on another “bush walk” and learned a lot about local plants and natural resources, and again he tasted some “dun” but not as much. After breakfast, we hit the road back to Johannesburg. We were able to stop at this roadside attraction with one of the most beautiful views I’ve ever seen, and Alyssa was able to do a bit of shopping (we had been so busy and our schedule so packed that buying souvenirs was impossible). We also stopped at the same restaurant that we had stopped at on the way to the Reserve/Park, and the food there was perfect (I wanted to eat everything that passed by). The MoAfrica lodge was much better the second time around, thank goodness, and I got to hang out with two girls we met at the reserve until I face-planted into the bed one last time in South Africa.
Alyssa’s flight back to the States wasn’t until 9pm, so she stayed behind and did a tour in Johannesburg, and so we parted ways after 2 weeks together. My flight to Ethiopia (my connecting flight) was pretty empty, so I moved from my original seat and had 3 to myself =) And the plane was super fancy with tv’s in every seat even in coach class. I didn’t get to stay in the Hilton like the way to S Africa with Alyssa, but Ethiopian airlines still put me up for the night during my layover. I met this weird guy from the Czech Republic, who within minutes of meeting him insulted my country, my government and me. So not only did we not become friends, buuut I don’t have the urge to travel to his country any time soon. On the plane ride to Lomé, I made a friend from Lebanon who was super cool and gave me an Islamic necklace and he might come up and visit the North while he is in the country for 3 months.
ALYSSA IN TOGO
Alyssa arrived in Lome around 5am and we were luckily able to catch a ride on the “Lome Limo” (a Peace Corps vehicle that goes from Lome to Dapaong and back, twice a month, free of charge to all riders) up to Dapaong. We stopped in Atakpame to pick up PCV Will and she was able to see the workstation there. Along the way we were able to pick up some “street meat” skewers for Alyssa to try. They were so good that we got two more on top of the original two. When we got here to Dapaong, we dropped off our bags and then headed out to dinner. We found moto guys on the way, and I forgot to teach her “moto etiquette”, so she didn’t know not to touch the moto man! When we got off, her moto man had a huge grin and my palm was in my face in embarrassment. We had a nice spaghetti-omelet meal on the roof of Bar Hope and danced around because we were the only ones there. I taught her some key phrases in French and Moba and showed her the “Moba shake”.
The next morning, we moto’ed over to the NANO CAVES. We had a nice hike up the mountain with the local lycee students, and then once the “guardian” was there, were able to descend into the caves. As the guide walked us around, I translated the history and significance of the caves to the Moba people and their tribal ancestors. We were even able to crawl through the narrow animal passage way (which the guide wasn’t happy about until he was given tip later). Afterwards, we hiked down again, and moto’ed back to Dapaong and got lunch right away (she got to have my favorite dish from my favorite food vendor). We converted some American money for Alyssa and did some various odd tasks around the city. We got chicken to go, made sandwiches at the workstation, and then passed out.
We got to Tami, shared some American jerky and candy, ate some “pate” with my host dad and then had only an hour rest before we got busy again. We helped Francois with bar inventory and Alyssa gave him some money management tips (she works at a bank in the USA), then we made liquid soap with my women’s group. I made us a quick spaghetti dinner, I gave her a lesson on panty washing out of basins and then we passed out (we did this a lot during her visit because of the heat and keeping so busy). She got the chance to sleep outside in my hammock, lucky girl.
The next day, we went over to the school even though it was a protest day (again). Alyssa taught my class (or the minimal amount of them that showed up) the “Happy and You Know It” song, and then we did songs and dances with them for an hour. It was probably their favorite class period ever. After, we greeted and talked to the 3ieme class a bit, and then chatted with my director (who gifted her a grafted mango). I tried my best to get her out to my market on market day, but I was bombarded with stuff going on in my compound and the bar. Mama gifted us some of her market day Tchuck (local beer that is similar to hard cider). The ladies of my women’s group came over to bottle the soap and make prices, and took 3 hours to do so (it should only take 45 minutes). Then Emanuel showed up and brought us a Guinea Fowl that he cooked himself, I bought some donkey meat, and we got a drink out front. Alyssa found a local elementary school director (not the Tami one) who spoke German and was able to practice with him. She also conversed a lot with Fatima, the girl who does my laundry, in English and in German. The schools here teach German at the high school level. I got into an argument with an “etranger” from Lome working on a water project in my village, and it wasn’t the highlight of the day. He wanted one of my female students (whom is like a little sister to me) to take the liquid soap that he bought from my women’s group to his house in the dark (the sun had set at this point) and she wasn’t confortable with it and came to Emanuel and me to complain. I went over and let them know she was going home, and he and the guys he was with insisted she just had to bring it to the one guys shop (mind you, he was with the shop owner who ripped me off because I’m white, and a few Gendarmes whom Emanuel thinks messes around with young girls in the local villages). The argument was settled by a one-on-one “peace” talk, but I still don’t like or trust the scumbag. I won’t get into the nitty-gritty but he’s not a nice guy, and thinks the world of himself. It sure was nice to be protected/ backed up by my host fam and local friends though. Alyssa and I then started playing cards with my host siblings until I got tired and retreated (and she did so about an hour after me and taught them at least 2 new card games- girl rocks!).
The next morning, we packed up and I took her on a brief village tour of Tami before heading over to Naki-Ouest for Market Day there. We ate at Emanuel’s house and then walked around the Market a bit until we got too hot. Then we bought some water, bean-cakes, prepared tofu, and a voltic of Tchuk and had a picnic under the “Mango Forest.” Alyssa taught some of the “Gobine Kids”, hopscotch and then we napped. After we had an adventure in Emanuel’s restroom and then headed back to Dapaong. We did a few errands and then sat down to dinner with my PCV pals at Carre-four. We came back to the workstation, packed and passed out.
Then, we headed on the “Post Bus” down to Lome bright and early. I told Alyssa to cut down her water and food intake so that she didn’t have to make as many pee stops on the way down as she did on the way up (the post bus operators aren’t as nice as the Peace Corps employees). Well, we got to Lome and she got really sick that night; she was dehydrated. Luckily I knew all the symptoms and had an ORS (oral rehydration) packet and was able to take care of her. A cold shower, some ibuprophen and a good rest polished off my nursing skills.
The next day was BEACH day at Hotel Palm Beach. We talked our way out of paying the “Sunday beach fee,” laid out our towels, collected shells, swam a bit, ate veal, and then passed out for over 2 hours. Then we ran into 3 PCVs and one of them had her dad and Bro from the States with her. We went swimming with them in the huge high-tide waves and then got dinner at the neighboring beach place, where PCV Sebastien had made friends with the owner and his son. Then all 7 of us fit into a taxi and went back to the hotels. Alyssa and I switched hotels to get a cheaper room and then passed out, again.
We slowly made our way over to the Peace Corps bureau late in the morning, where a bunch of PCVs were hanging out. She was able to meet a good portion of my “Stage” who were on their way to the Training of Trainers for the incoming new group of PCVs (who arrive June 13th!). We hopped on the internet, got lunch with everyone (we found a place with real cold-cuts), I hit up the bank, and then we got dinner at this Vietnamese restaurant with a few of them (including the awesome and wonderful Lydia). We headed back to the hotel after, to once again pack our bags.
The next morning, we woke up early, dropped our bags at the PC Bureau and then headed to the American Embassy to extend Alyssa’s Temporary Visa (because it had been closed the day she arrived due to a Togolese holiday, then the day before because of an American holiday). We had trouble getting in and then the person helping Alyssa apparently didn’t understand English and was trying to get her buy more passport pages instead of extending the Visa. When she went to the restroom, I talked to another lady, in French, and figured out that we were at the wrong place… And then the head of Consul came over and helped us. We explained the situation, he told us not to worry, made one phone call over to the head of airport security, gave us his card and we were on our way back to the bureau (that was one expensive ride for nothing). I was able to pick up my WHO (health immunization record) card, my passport and American credit card, and then we made it to the airport for our adventure to Johannesburg, South Africa.
BEFORE ALYSSA, AFTER LAST BLOG POST
Matt C and I had an interesting night at Bar Guinness… We somehow joined a Gendarmes dance party. Enough said. On that Monday, my school director and I had a meeting with the Regional English Teaching Inspector, and then the Chief Inspectors to ask permission and explain my trip to Kara with 10 students and 1 teacher for the Odyssey of the Mind competition. Then he brought me to see his “house in progress,” and to the 3ieme BEPC sport testing area. I helped cheer on our team, hand out beverages after, and collect IDs. I was so proud of our students; they did so well and with such class! After the last obstacle, the race around the track, kids were dropping to the ground in exhaustion, but not the Tami team. When they finished, they got into an orderly line, recorde their results and then came over to hydrate. We got drinks and lunch, and then I headed back to village. That week, I helped Francois with the bar inventory, I had classes, a few Odyssey meetings, a visit from APCD Rose, and a visit from Head of PC Togo Security Peter.
And then I left for the ODYSSEY OF THE MIND Competition!
With a car of 5 girl students, 5 boy students, the science teacher Mr. Simane, our two drivers, and myself, we headed out from Tami at precisely 6:45 am. And then we broke down 15 minutes down the road and waited on the side of the road for 2 hours. Good thing we left early! Along the way, I made sure the kids were fed and watered, and we only broke down twice more before our arrival to Kara. We were still early, and the second team there. Another PCV had the bright idea of talking the driver to taking the kids to some local sites of Kara. So after treating them to lunch, we went over to the Palais de Congres, and the University of Kara, and explored the grounds a bit. Seeing the kids faces on the way down and around Kara was reason enough to make this trip; they were absolutely in shock from amazement. Most people of this country (especially in the Savannah Region) hardly make it out of the villages to get to their own regional capitals, let alone across the country; so this was a once in a lifetime chance for these kids.
The next day, we all gathered for breakfast and then were shuttled over to the site where thecompetition was to take place. There were 8 teams, and every region in Togo represented. We did some icebreakers on the basketball courts, and then got serious. There were two “short-term problems” for the students to complete. So all morning until lunch, the students took turns completing the problems, with their respective allotted times. The first problem was a “hands-on” problem, where the students were given a broom and other materials, and they had to get Ping-Pong balls from one set of tables to another in the least amount of time and most creative way possible. The second problem was verbal, and the students were given a word, and they had to continue a chain of words, using the last letter of the word given as the first letter of the next word, without repeating any words. Then after lunch was the main show: the “long-term problem” sketch battle. Each team set up their props and performed the sketches that they had been preparing prior to the competition day. My team did a sketch on forced marriage and the importance of girls education (they made me SO PROUD). Oh and of course, there was a downpour of rain right after the first team, and the power went out, so we had to wait for a bit, mid-competition (cavaaller). After each team went, the judges went out to make a decision, and the crowd was kept occupied by games, boncs and picture taking. When the judges came back out, PCV Ryan was trying to “pump up” the crowd and was asking “who wants to win?!” All the kids yelled and cheered. Then he went on to call out all the teams, and further amp up the crowd. He called me team first… and my kids ran on stage because they thought they won… Poor things were so embarrassed! And my homologue and myself couldn’t do anything but laugh our pants off because it was hilarious. So we moved on to the results, and my team one the first short-term activity but lost overall. Sarah Beth’s team from the Maritime region was the overall winning team. After, we all took team photos, PCV photos, and homologue photos up on stage. Then, we headed back to the hotel for dinner and a dance party. And if I hadn’t felt old already, that night, as a middle school dance chaperone, I felt like a real adult.
The next morning, I made sure to give Mr. Simane enough money to feed and water the kids on the way back to village, and I headed to Lome to pick up Alyssa from the airport! I had a rough ride there, a got overwhelmed upon arrival (because I hadn’t been to the capital since our Swearing In almost a year prior), and cried. And then I called Matt C, who talked me calm, gave me instructions and advice. I had to get a hotel room from 7pm to 2am because her flight was supposed to get in a 3:30am, the Peace Corps PCV office closed at 11pm and the bar at the hotel closed at 11:30pm (it was a Sunday night). The next morning, and an expensive ride, I made it to the airport to pick her up. Her flight was late of course, so I was able to get to know my driver, Yao, who’s a pretty cool guy (especially appreciated because people in the South aren’t usually as nice as him).
And then began my adventure as tour guide, translator and host to my first visitor abroad, as detailed above.
Well, I’m heading back to village tomorrow and hope not to be bombarded by everyone… fingers crossed!
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