18 January,2013
Greetings once again folks!Ca fait longtemps!
HAPPY 2013!!! Bonne Annee!
Sorry it’s been awhile, but I’ve been in village. Mostly …
The low-down (“DL” or what have you):
Xmas in Dapaong went super well! It’s all a blur now and seems ages ago. There was lots of talking and guiding people around the city. I felt pretty needed and loved! And it was nice to have so many people (all 8 EGE’ers that were “In Country” at the time showed up), here together, and not having to be overwhelmed with training sessions. We were able to relax and enjoy one another.
Between Xmas and New Years, I pit-stopped down in Kawa-bas (in the Kara region) with fellow PCV Will. He is the sole PCV in country living in traditional “mud hut” style housing. His compound is comprised of 5 huts, 1 “paillot” (open on the sides, covered with “paille” or straw on top), and a bathroom/shower area. His place is equipped with a solar oven, hammock, LOTS of Papaya trees (which I used to not care for), beautiful flowers (Gardenia’s I believe), a sachet “garden” of mushrooms, and a hand-made circular rock garden. Overall, it’s lovely and quite tranquil (especially compared to my FULL household). His village was sad that I didn’t “fete” with them, but I thought it best to pass the most important National holiday (New Years) with my own village. As I left, one woman said that my “zedman” was stealing their new friend! =)
New Years was chaos and very much the biggest fete in village, as I was warned. I was awoken to the screams of hoards of children belting out, “Bonne Annee,” and adults throwing candy and goodies at them. Apparently they celebrate New Years on the 1st of January (not the Eve of), the kids treat it like Halloween, and the adults all go around in their own version of trick-or-treating. Apparently all the village wives (and Larba) cook, and the men (and Larba) go around visiting every one elses’s compounds/houses eating and drinking. Seems to me that New Years is just a good excuse to share… And keep sharing until February, what? There are still people wishing me a “bonne annee” and asking for free drinks/food. I treat it just as any other day: smile, say “no”, and walk away (no use getting all frustrated, as it just overwhelms you and doesn’t bother them).
Funny story about this actually: The other day, after class, I stopped in a Tchuck stand to have some local brew on Marché day and was alone with the “Marché mama,” when another man joined us. He sat down and demanded a drink, stating, “Il faut me donnerunboisson.” I considered the “smile and no” tactic, but he already knows that I don’t like people demanding things of me, especially alcohol. So, I asked him (and her apparently) why they thought it was ok to demand things and ask for “cadeaus” (presents). He simply said, “if you don’t ask, how does someone know you want it?” And there you go folks, that is Togo.
So back to New Years. I ended up (not killing- didn’t have the heart to) plucking, cleaning, chopping and frying up some chicken and couscous for the chief and a bunch of people on New Years day. And my sous-chef, (little host bro) Mamba, was quite the teacher on chicken prepping. He was quite confused that I ate and cooked meat but never had actually “cleaned” a chicken before. I guess in retrospect, how one buys meat in the United States isn’t natural and I can see why it boggles the village mind.
Two weekends ago, I had intentions of staying in village, but was surprised by a phone call requesting my French skills to translate for these Texan Doctors in Nano. I had just enjoyed a Marché day in the neighboring village of Naki-Ouest (where I found eggs and lettuce!) when I got the call from my Naki-Ouest Friend, Emmanuel. He’s worked with many PCVs in the past and I am now the closest one to him (and I’m ok too I guess), so he goes out of his way to try and work/befriend me. The two Doctors, Stephanie and Mark, were super cool and apparently already had a Togolese translator. I just made life easier for the Americans and the translator, Nae-pak, to have me there. We went to a meeting in Nano with these groups that Stephanie has been working with, visited the village chef (and his well that she funded), visited the local clinicand then went to Dapaong (where they posted me up with my own room and hot running water!). The meeting in Nano went well; they all were giving updates and getting on the same page, and there was dancing, food, Tchakpa, and a demonstration on “savonliquide” (liquid soap- because people here “wash their hands” by dipping them in the same bowl of water, without soap, and then eat afterwards- seriously). Dr. Stephanie and I had a girls dinner that night at the Campement, while Dr. Mark recouped and relaxed in solitude. The next day, I brought them to the PCV Maison, we had lunch, then parted ways, until after my class Monday. Monday, I came back into Dapaong and translated for Dr. Mark at the Regional Capitol hospital, while Dr. Stephanie had a meeting with her Togolese crew. I really enjoyed translating (being needed for once), the nice convos, NEW FRIENDS, new work project, a full belly and hot shower! I know plenty of cool lawyers, and my cool Doc list was slacking, until now.
Health:
Has been good! Harmaton can’t get this Larba down! I’ve started up running again, now that my leg, foot and stomach have healed over. My newest goal is to run the Ghana Half Marathon (and now that I’ve publicly stated it, MUST do it). I’m hoping to get some PCV friends to join me, and if anyone from the USA is interested (hint-nudge) please feel free; the race is in early September. Rumor has it that this International race is small, well equipped with water (a big plus for runners), and they celebrate after like true Africans (and if you come, you will understand). Also, I’ve come across a new home gym! It’s called the village water pump, and is located a few km away from my compound. One in the States may think they understand the value of water, as they pay his/her water bill… but let me tell you; the real value of water becomes clear as you use the entire force of your body to pump water into a “bidon” and then use your bike, carefully balancing as you bike through sand-dirt (trying not to topple over in front of the whole community), to lug it back and fill up your personal reservoirs. My zedman commented on my jacked arms when he came to get me yesterday. Thank you water-pump-home-gym workout plan.
In other health news, I have been trying to experiment more with cooking, using my Peace Corps issued “whopper” book. As in, “What to cook where there is no whopper;” complete with a huge photo of a cheeseburger on the front. The picture on the front distracted me, and made me mad and hungrier before, so I avoided it. But, I’ve come to really like the cookbook, especially the “Easy Dahl” recipe. I let my mama’s and the kids try some of my concoctions sometimes. No matter if it’s crap or not, they are thankful. Gotta love Togo.
Newest Book:
“A random book about the power of ANYone,” by Talia Y Leman. This book was sent to me via snail mail by Bev and took me awhile to get to (I have a stack of books to read on my desk and in my kindle), but I’m glad I finally have. It was an easy read, mainly due to the awesome literary voice of the 16 yr old author, and the attention-grabbing comics of the illustrator. I found it amusing, inspiring, and well researched. I recommend it (so go buy/borrow it- now!). I plan to circulate it among the Togo PCVs, because I’m sure that especially Volunteers will appreciate it.
Class:
… yea. Well it’s goin’. It’s been up and down like a pigeon’s bobbing head, but cavaaller. Some days the kids are [decently] good and I get the feeling that they may actually pass their exams, and then other days I can’t get them to shut up! I don’t know if it’s because there are 126 6th graders and I’m some weird white broad who doesn’t beat them, but I find it difficult sometimes to keep focus/control. I’ve noticed some seat changes in some students: the “good” students have streamed more forward, as to be able to hear! One day after class, I went back to the “teachers lounge,” and said, “teaching’s hard; I give you all credit. I find it hard to be a teacher and a vet at the same time.” And with that, I feel I have conquered the Togolese humor. They were bubbling over in laughter, repeating, “6ieme la, c’estcomme les animaux” (6th graders, like animals).
And there have been a few break-through moments for me. Last Friday, at the end of a “bad” class, I held up a “khaki poster” with lyrics to a song (that PCV Sam had sung with them), said that we can’t sing it today because people weren’t respectful, and tucked it back away. As I did so, a bunch of students [in the front of course] were repeating, “SORRY MISS,” in English! It was too cute, but Miss Larba had to stand her ground and not sing, unfortunately. I love how much they love singing and playing games. Then, the other day, the class major (the lead kid) took names of kids who were talking/disrupting class and gave it to the director after class. When I made it to the Teachers Lounge, the director approached me asking if I had had some disruptive students… I replied, “Yes of course, every day.” He made any kid on that list do yard work around the school; it’s the Togolese school system way of punishment. Kids grab hoes and weed, fetch water, sweep or do whatever it is that needs maintenance. I’m a huge fan of this [super productive] policy!
And folks, I consider myself officially a teacher: I posted grades on report cards (called “bulletins” here). Never something I EVER thought I’d find myself saying. Especially an English teacher of all subjects! Bev and Gretchen can back me up on my early struggles with the English language (and many other normal people stuff like chewing with one’s mouth closed).
Other work “Choses”:
Mama Rachel was accepted as a candidate to the Women’s Wellness and Empowerment Conference! I was a bit worried because, although she can speak French quite well, she cannot read or write [very well]. She was pulled out of school early, like most Togolese girls, for one reason or another. It’s sad to me because she’s brilliant, brass and a good teacher! I could see here standing in front of my 6th graders more than me (well, she’d have to learn English too though). The Conference is in March and because she’s been so helpful and kind to me, I’m paying all the fees/upfront costs (and because I <3 her).
The school clubs are slowly but surely going. They get cancelled a lot but cavaaller. We finally had our first English Club meeting this past Wednesday, and it went really well. Decent turnout, got some students to “volunteer” for board positions, went over a poem I found in a book, played musical chairs to American music (thanks to the portable speaker that Aunt Lynita sent), and brainstormed ideas for the club meetings. Afterwards, my homologue asked me if I wanted to help him with his High school English tutoring session. As you may have come to find out, I love feeling needed, and so thoroughly enjoyed imparting my Native-English-Speaker knowledge/opinion upon the group. We stayed there for about an hour and half and by the time we broke it up, the sun had set and my belly was yelling at me.
I’m planning to do a SavonLiquide and hand-washing session for the next Scientifille meeting. And I have printed up some poems for the Theatre club to read aloud in our next meeting. I don’t know what to do with the Gender Committee. It’s a requirement by my APCD, and the group seems impossible to motivate (even when I bribe them with popcorn).
I’m hoping to get a “Village Savings and Loan program” started up in Tami with Emmanuel. It will be small, with only 4 women, but we shall see!
The Odyssey of the Mind idea is also stewing slowly. I gave the paperwork to Director Ayeva, who was interested in being my homologue on this project, and I’m sure it’s all still sitting on his desk somewhere. I’m going to have to light a flame under this one, I’m sure.
Village “Choses”:
So I’ve spent a bunch of time, over the past weeks, in village: bonding, being productive and such. I’ve been spending more time with my little host sis, Marie. Not only does she whine and cry less with me (than with others), but also I find her more tolerable than most adults (again; when she’s not crying/whining). I’ve been taking small steps in French and English with her. She likes to grab or pet my head and say “hair,” and also when I say nose, she points to her nose! Our first English break through was when I was rocking her in my arms one day and she said, “twinkle.” Since I’ve moved in, Marie has had a habit of falling asleep on me (the family insists it’s because I’m gentle with her and not because I’m boring), and I usually sing or hum “Twinkle, Twinkle Little Star” to her. And we also practice small phrases in French, Like “super,” “merci beaucoup,” and “cavatresbien.”
With the older kids, I usually play cards, draw, or do origami. Sometimes Mamba will ask me for help on his English homework. He usually asks me for help when he wants to show off, not when he actually needs it. But hey, at least he’s practicing. And both Mamba and Pakiyendou (9 yr old sis) helped me fetch water the other day from the pump (and not the drop bucket open well- which is dirty) and they exclaimed that it was in fact a very good workout.
With mama #2, Mama Rachel, I have become a new clothing design team. Well, sort of. I buy panye/fabric, make drawings, and then she makes it a real piece of clothing. It’s kind of fun and she wants to use my drawings for other customers! I’m going to start designing other things like potholders and stuff to get her seamstress business booming.
With mama #1 (haven’t quite gotten her Moba name down yet, so she remains just Mama), I’ve been helping with Marie, helping make Tchuck, and helping with other random household tasks. She just loves when I pay any kind of attention to her, or do anything really. She also enjoys attempting to teach me Moba (all the luck to her!).
And lastly…
HOLY PACKAGES! I am seriously the most loved PCV in all of Togo (well maybe Emily Brown is my competition) because of all the letters and carepackages sent! So thank you to my loving and supportive fam and friends back home! I miss you all <3 And my fellow PCVs, host family and homologue all say thank you as well (I may have shared a few things). It really lifted my spirit every time someone told me that I got another package. And my belly is happy =)
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