Livin that village life

Nov. 1, 2012

So this morning, I got ready as usual, put on some panye, ate some leftover pasta from dinner, drank some instant nescafe, and locked up the maison for school.  On Thursdays I usually shadow/help with my counterpart’s 6ieme class at 7am and then have my own 6ieme class at 8am; after which I hang out in the professors lounge and then head home to clean up and get ready for the Marché (which are Mondays and Thursdays in Tami).  This morning, however, as I was exiting the maison courtyard, my host brother, Mamba (or Boris), stopped me and asked, “Tuvaoucommeca?” (You are going where like that?) And I responded, “Au CEG, je sais quetuestmalade, maisil y a les classes pour les autres, commetoujours” (school, I know that you are sick- he has malaria- but there are classes for others still, like usual).  Well, apparently not.  Today is All Saints Day, so no school! But the family complimented my pretty Panye after a good laugh.  We walked to the school just to get out of the house and I saw one of the other professors, who gave me the key to the teacher’s lounge, so here I sit, typing up the latest of “It’s Togo Time”.  It’s funny, last Friday was the Muslim Holiday “Tabaski” (fete of the sheep and birth of Mohamed), and this Thursday it’s the Catholic holiday of the dead. 

Some good books I’ve read and recommend:

“No Hurry to Get Home” by Emily Hahn

It mentions ABQ and Santa Fe! It’s the memoir of a New Yorker Journalist, whom grew up in the 20’s/30’s and traveled many places including The Congo and China.  She’s super sassy and grew up in one of the most interesting times in general, let alone being a well traveled, adventurous female.

“Ishmael: An adventure of the mind and Spirit” by Daniel Quinn

My PCV friends Rachel and William recommended it, and it really gets one thinking about society, creation, and human existence.

I’m currently reading, “Under African Skies: Modern African Stories,” edited by Charles R. Larson.  It’s a collection of short stories from different countries in Africa and is very interesting so far.  Some of the writers are from English speaking Africa, but a few of them are translated from French or Portuguese.  Before each story, the editor gives a bit of detail about the author, many of whom have been incarcerated or exiled due to the content of their material being controversial.  The stories tend to be a bit dark and curious, and many of them like crossing lines between the dead and living.   

Health update:

My bike wounds are nicely scarred over now, and the moto burn is finally closing up! I’ve had to keep a bandage over it for 3 weeks to protect it from dirt and germs.  I should have a nice scar, I suppose.  Ca va aller.  It makes for a good story later.. I could always used the phrase, “you should see the other guy!” And, I look tougher!

Last week I had a head cold but that was over by the weekend.

I ran for the first time since my accidents yesterday! It wasn’t too impressive, but I ran 3 miles; departed at 5:30 am (that way not too many people awake that I have to greet) and was able to see the moonset and sunrise.  It’s approaching harmaton season (windy season- without rain) so the weather is cooler, and was absolutely beautiful for a run. 

Recent accomplishments:

Made Pate du Riz with Sauce d’arachide and Pentade (rice pasta with peanut sauce and guinea fowl).  Rachel (2^nd mama) had me make it with her step by step, from cleaning the rice (it gets rocks and choses in it), to sifting it with water, then boiling, stirring/pounding (the hardest part!), and then forming patties with your hand and a petit gaurd (and it’s hot man!). 

I “epuissédmon eau” (got my own water from the well).  I know this doesn’t sound hard, but it’s a workout (just like stirring and mushing the Pate from above).  Mamba helped me the first time, and I’ve done it once since then.  I have to take this yellow container (similar to a spare gas can-made of plastic), strap it to my bike and bring it to the CEG (where the well is), then I use this “cutoff” yellow container with a string and drop it in the well and pull it up by hand.  Once the container is full, I tie it to the back of my bike with this rubber strap (I bought in Dapaong) and transport it chez moi , unload it in my water storage, and repeat until replenished.  I’m usually good with 4 “bidons” (or yellow containers) for most the week. 

I know I wrote previously about “laveringmesvetements” (washing my clothes-by hand), but I have been paying the girl that the previous volunteer did to do it for me.  However, yesterday, after my run, I not only lavered my sous (no one else can wash your unders, it’s impolite), I decided to also wash the rest of my clothes.  This is after I swept my place, washed dishes, and then after lunch (made some couscous) I fetched water from the well.  SO yesterday, “j’ai fait beacoup de sport” (I did lots of exercise).  Normal, everyday tasks here are a nice workout and it felt good to do on my own (now that my health is back on track!). 

I gutted a fish for the first time.  In the past, I could hardly watch without turning my head, but this time I bought one from the Marché with Rachel and helped cut and clean it.  We made a tomato sauce with it and even put the [good part of] head in! This was actually Monday, when I was having not the best day in the world and Rachel could tell, so she Marché’d with me and we ate snacks, bought tomatoes and stuff and then cooked.  Not every day is going to be the best and I’m thankful for the family that I live with here; they are super supportive and caring (and there’s always someone there, which can be annoying at times, but for the most part is nice).

Other news:

I had a visit from Madame Rose (my EGE advisor/program director).  I was last on her list, of course, but not least.  It was Tuesday, and the day before was my bad day, so I was a bit worried about the lesson plan that I had created, but she loved my class! She was there when I arrived at school at 6:40am, we did the raising of the flag, the students sang and then she had them all face her and she delivered one of her speeches.  And let me tell you, this woman can talk! And when she talks, people listen.  She speaks with such enthusiasm and force; it’s just very empowering.  She addressed the whole school and let them know in more detail why I’m here, how the program has changed from the last volunteer, how they should respect me and participate with me, and how I’m here making enough money to eat (no salary) and all the people and luxuries back home I gave up to be here with them.  It was really nice, especially after my bad day for her to stand up for me in front of everyone (without me asking her to; she had no idea that I had previously had a bad day).  Then she sat in on my class at 7am, and the end of which she thanked my class for being so awesome and cooperative.  Also, when we entered the class, the class Major (lead student) was taking attendance and her eyes were popping out of her head when he started counting above 100! It was hilarious! For us it’s normal now and no big deal.  She was impressed with my ability to keep them active in their learning with a class so numerous.  I mean, as a teacher, you are supposed to circulate, and engage but with that many students, it’s hard to move, let alone circulate!

The afternoon after Madame Rose left, I also had a visit from the PC regional security director, Amos (he’s the go-to guy for Kara and Savannes).  He had never been to my village (I’m guessing he’s new) and so he showed up at my school, we walked to my house and filled out paperwork, then we walked over to Salué the chef. He wasn’t here long but it felt comforting with him getting familiar with my village. 

The tally: scorpians killed= 3 (1 right before I was about to nap, it was under my pillow).  No worries though, apparently the scorpians here aren't deadly; they just hurt a lot (and according to my host brother, they hurt for exactly 2 days).

My dog now helps me teach.  Well, he kinda just follows me then lays down uder a table when we get to school.  At first I was very apprehensive with having him, a dog, at school; but things are pretty laid back here (and he doesn't listen, at all).  Although he has learned that I do NOT like him sleeping on my outside table at night (I would let him sleep inside but he's got insects and dirt all over him, and likes sleeping on my spare lipico pad, and infects it); he now sleeps on the family's table. Well, it's an improvement?

Last Sunday I wanted to bike to a nearby village, Lotogou, for their marche day (and to salue the "soeurs").  The family agreed I should take along my host brother, Mamba, and we agreed to go after the heat of the day.  When it was time to depart, I saw rain clouds approaching... and the family were adament that A) they weren't storm clouds and B) Even it they were, they wouldn't touch near us.  Well, they were wrong.  About halfway through our bike ride, we shook shelter, the two of us and the Church Pastor (whom we picked up along the way), in a roadside boutique.  After about 45 minutes, the rain cleared enough for us to carry on to our destination.  The rest of the route was surreal.  The sky was light but with a after rain darkness about it, and the road was full of running water, reflecting the clouds that were still passing; and I just pedaled on, behind my two Togolese guides: a small-framed 12 yr old boy and a fancy pants man of god, both with smiles as they checked every so often that I was still vertical. 

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Note:

Someone brought to my attention that she tried but couldn't comment on my blog and ummmm... Low and behold, I apparently disabled comments to anyone but myself? Sorry guys! So, now comment to your hearts content. 

Miss you all back home!!

And HAPPY BIRTHDAY to all the November babies, including: Bev, PCV Katherine, and PCV Katy!!!