Merry Holidays!

December 22

HAPPY HOLIDAYS!!! Christmas, Hanukah, Kwanzaa, Ramadan, and New Years!

THANK YOU to everyone who’s sent letters and packages! Grams, Aunt Lynita, Gretchen, Neighbors Bob & Paige, Grandma Adams, and my Cacciato cousins… It’s so nice to receive photos, letters, pictures and goodies that I can share with my fellow PCV friends/family.  I love and miss all of you awesome American people =)

Since my last entry…

Still teaching.  And we are on “winter” break, or “Congé,” right now, yay mini-vacation! This past week I’ve been sitting in on finals, or “Compos”.  Pretty much just like finals in the States but they have to supply their own paper and put certain titles on it, and I just sit there making sure they don’t “tricher” (cheat).  On Wednesday they made me do “dicté,” dictation, and had to read a passage and all the questions out loud to the students (I felt bad for them).  And Friday I did “redaction,” where I write the subject of their letter or composition on the board, they copy and then compose their response.  Pretty legit.  My class’s English test, or compo, was Tuesday and I had all 125 of the tests graded by Thursday morning. 

On Wednesday the 5^th, I had my 2^nd English Teachers meeting, located in the nearby village of Tonte.  I was lead reporter, so took notes the whole time and had to read the minutes to everyone at the end of the meeting.  While taking those notes, they also requested my opinion on virtually every topic, which is flattering but exhausting! After the meeting, we all went and got chicken and drinks at a local bar, and then my homologue and I cut it back to Tami for my Theatre Club meeting.  That meeting went well as well.  The Togolese teacher that I conducted it with is quite different from me, so it was a nice balance: Him serious and me a goofball.  I got to play charades with them and they loved it! They weren’t very good at it, but with practice they will be champs =)

Saturday, the 8^th, I was in Kara for the Odyssey of the Mind Training.  The turnout was good and I felt pretty informed afterwards; so: success.  We did a morning session about general info and activities.  Then breaked for lunch and repose time.  Some local Kara folk brought me to this fabulous place called “Marocs” and I had pizza in a scenic and cozy atmosphere.  After we reconvened apres lunch they brought in some local students and we did some practice activities on them.  Afterwards my fellow PCVs and I went and hung out at a few local places and ended up at a fancy club type place.  Then I had yet another interesting bush-taxi experience…

Monday, the 10^th, Sam, a fellow PCV, came to visit my class and photograph for some publication of hers.  People are always amazed at how many Togolese students are able to fit into my classroom.  It really is a sight! I’m interested to see her photos when she comes back to Togo from holiday vacation.She seemed to enjoy the kids like everyone else and people are usually amazed at how well-behaved they can be.  I find it nice to make visitors do a “bonc”, song or game to break the ice before they sit down and watch or take pictures.  It warms everyone up and makes people more comfortable.  It’s kind of rumored that I “make” people do something, but I only encourage ;) After class there was a surprise assembly.  A bunch of “big-wigs” from all over came and spoke to the entire school and they gave out free books to the school/students/staff.  It was also marché day that day, so there was much more going on in village than the average day in Tami.  Poor Sam biked to my place from Dapaong (she’s a CHAP- health- volunteer in Dapaong), so we tried to keep low key and chill out… that didn’t work too well until the evening, because a simple trip to the Marché turned into salué-ing everyone and grabbing a drink with the étranger’s from the assembly.  Sometimes I compare being here to being a celebrity in the States… Being watched even when you don’t know it, and being judged just the same.  It has it’s perks and downfalls; and for the most part it’s fine.  Don’t get me wrong, I don’t plan to become famous ever… I don’t feel a need for unflattering pictures and senseless gossip to appear on the cover of publications for all to read... Having a blog, I’m the one dictating what unflattery and gossip I feel is necessary for the world to see; much different, I assure you.

Last weekend was interesting and exhausting.  I was empowered to bike to Dapaong after my visit from Sam, and so left Friday right after my am class.  I forgot that the way there is virtually all up hill and against the Harmaton winds… It was rough, but I’m a stubborn one.  I stopped in Naki-Ouest on the way to grab a "sucrerie" with Emmanuel, and to regain some strength mid-way.  I got to Dapaong and got a flat tire.  The air-valve was detached from the inner tire tube, so I had to get a bike man to fix it.  And I happened to choose a bike man that was Muslim, so I had to wait for the prayer breaks in between working.  I ended up getting both tires fixed, just to be on the safe side.  The next day, I bought a basket for the front and went back for him to attach that as well.  New friend! I also made a “Rasta” friend (they call anyone with dreads “rasta”, because most Togolese shave their hair- male and female) in the marché, named Masta Ka, whom I purchased a hand-crafted creation from and later ran into.  My friend and I were having some issues with the basket man and the guys at next boutique over, and Master Ka came up and simply said, “Larba” (my village name) and they left us alone.  I love new and intimidating friends.  My friends and I made pan-pizza Saturday night and French toast Sunday morning.  Successful weekend.  The bike back to Tami was mostly downhill, with the wind blowing in my favor.  

And besides compos and reading (got through 3 books), I haven’t done too much this past week.  I did manage to make snowflakes out of old magazine pages with my host siblings and a few neighborhood kids.  They are always so attentive and participatory whenever I teach them something.  I wish American kids were as easily entertained and not so spoiled by ipads and cellphones. 

The latest reads:

“The Secret Life of Bees,” by Sue Monk Kidd

“Water for Elephants,” by Sara Gruen

“The Alchemist,” by Paulo Coelho

Oh and planted a new Mango tree (which Dou-Dou#2 is modeling for you)!

Well, last night I was able to enjoy a nice meal with fellow “Savamily” members at Campement, for Matt C’s birthday.  Tonight I’m heading over to PCV Katy’s house for dinner with a few other friends (she’s making us Spinach pasta and salad).  Then I believe we’re doing Christmas eve dinner somewhere with a bunch of volunteers who are coming up from all over Togo for Christmas.  Winter is making her famous pancakes for Xmas breakfast and then EAFS APCD, Paul, is hosting a Christmas party at his place for everyone.  Lots of holiday love! No worries to everyone back home who thought I’d be alone, hungry and without power on Christmas… I will be just fine =)

I hope all you folks back home and those of you that I won't see here in Togo, all the best for the holidays! Be Good or Be Good At It... ;)

It's December Already?!

December 1^st, 2012

The last two weeks have been busy busy busy!

Firstly, medical update:

My left foot is now back down to a size that is as normal as it’s going to get (whew!).  And besides a bit of carsickness from the rough route to and from IST (In Service Training) in Pagala (about 7-8 hours away), I have been maladie and injury free!

Some of the current events in my life:

Bought and installed new locks on the 2 doors of my house! They are candy apple red and fancy… Even have a chain feature.

Helped with “Devoirs Day” again.  This time I helped with the 4ieme class and the subject was SVT (“Science de la Vie et Terre”- Earth and life science). 

I washed and lubed my bike with the assistance of my host brother, Mamba.

I had many class visitors the week of Thanksgiving!

Monday (the 19^th), the Director and my homologue sat in my class and TEFL graded me again.  Later that day, PCV Aaron came to shadow me; he marche’ed with me Monday afternoon, sat in on my class Tuesday.  They loved him and he taught them 2 new boncs! We made dinner with my host family that night, then he left Wednesday.  On Thursday (Thanksgiving), I had the Country Director, Carolina Cardova, visit my class and me! I had her lead a game to introduce herself and “break the ice,” then we went to visit PCV Winter Heath in Yambaout  and then had a great Thanksgiving meal in Dapaong with about 25 other PCV’s and friends! Out meal was complete with 2 Turkeys, stuffing, salad (we don’t get this often but love it!), cranberry sauce, desserts… the works! I ate way past capacity but loved every second of it =)

Last weekend was pretty chill with my Dapaong friends (I mean family).  We watched movies, ate good food, bought some much needed Panye and slept off a busy week! One of my friends got pretty sick and I accompanied him to the Dapaong Clinic… We found out this week that he contracted HepA? CRAZY! I translated for him that day at the clinic and felt quite useful.

This past week I have been in PAGALA (down south about 7-8 hours) for training with all the other Volunteers in my “Stage” (so great seeing everyone and catching up!).  I was able to connect with all of the other people in my EGE group and brainstorm solutions to problems or concerns people were having.  We had some great training sessions and AWESOME FOOD! I’m pretty sure I gained at least 7 lbs during the week of IST. 

Now it’s time to head back to village and make moves! I’ve got plenty of ideas from training.  Also, next weekend I’m planning on going to Kara for a Training of Trainers (TOT) for Odyssey of the Mind.  For this program I get to choose 10-12 4ieme/5ieme boys/girls to train and compete in a challenge of the mind in May (I believe).  This week I also have another English Teacher Training (sesssions with the Togolese teachers in the area) and hopefully I can get the Theatre Club off to a good start as well!

Happy Belated Thanksgiving and Happy December All!

Some photos

Some requested photos:
(I had to come back into Dapaong for meds for the "pregnant foot," so thought I would fulfill a few pic requests)

Dog, Rocko

Some of my house: Bedroom view 1 & 2

Living/Dining Room/Kitchen:

left side: my patio; right side: maison courtyard

Kittens! Both named Doux-Doux?

Mauvais Espirits?

11^thNovember, 2012

I know it’s only been a week since my last post, but it’s been a crazy one!

Last Weekend

Class Friday and then dapaong…

Got a care package from Uncle Ron! He sent a nice card, pj’s and some spices, thanks Uncle Ron!

Had a meeting Friday and Saturday in Dapaong for Club Espoire!

The Saturday meeting lasted 3 hours, the theme was Planet Earth with a turnout of about 47 kiddos!

After Marché shopping, and dinner at bar Kado (they are awesome Pate!), we all decided to go to this club (only club in Dapaong)… And apparently it was a “show/open mic night”… The guys were supposed to be singing but it was mostly just some Togolese men lip-syncing and wiggling on stage… hilarious!

Sunday I did my internet thing, then went back to Tami, via moto; then ate lunch, and jumped on my bike to get to a women’s groupement meeting in Naki-Ouest, by request of my friend, Emmanuel.  The meeting was in Moba and was roughly translated throughout by Emannuel.  I liked the singing! And afterwards, Emannuel treated me to rice and chicken, along with some local teen that are involved in the community.

Monday

MauvaisEspirits:

I went to the CEG early, because my class wasn’t until 10am.  The hour before my class, there was a girl wailing in the 4ieme classroom.  Her mother was called and she was brought out to the courtyard, where she proceeded to shake, drop to the ground, scream and cry.  It was diagnosed that she was possessed by “mauvaisespirits,” and my homologue strapped her on his moto, with a male student behind her and brought her home, wailing and shaking.  Right before my class started, I noticed several new girls in the courtyard with similar symptoms, and thought these girls were just copy-cats looking for attention and that their charade would be squashed immediately.  So I carried on to my class.  About mid-way through, the attention of the students was being drawn moreso out the doors than at my lesson, so I closed them.  The students complained of “chaleur” or heat, so I said I would only open them, if they would pay attention.  Needless to say, I was able to finish the day’s plan.  When I exited my classroom, I noticed that I was the only teacher left standing.  Everyone else had gone home or was surrounding the wailing girls in a circle, watching the pastor work some spiritual magic/prayers upon them.  So, I watched for a bit and then headed home.  I was told that the event ended shortly after my arrival chez moi.  I asked people in the village if this was normal, and they responded, “cavaaller au village” (that’s how it goes in village).  I called my APCD, Madame Rose later and asked if this was normal; she replied no, but if I didn’t feel my safety was a concern, then there was no problem. 

Tuesday

Director Ayeva “shadowed”/graded my class... He makes me nervous =/

Met up in afternoon for evaluation and for him to answer some questions on my Etude Milieu (Site Study Report for the first few months at my post)!

I came home from my meeting with the Director and there was a goat seizing in the front courtyard.  Apparently he had eaten a plastic bag and Mama Rachel (who sells prepared food in the market) bought the goat to put in her dish the next day.  I watched and helped in the process from it’s lasts breaths to being on my very plate the next day.  It was very interesting to me, and the man that cleaned it was super helpful in teaching me parts and processes.  He got paid not in money, but received a meal the next including the meat that he had worked with the night prior. 

Wednesday

Ran 3 miles!

Spent 2.5 hours at the Jardind’enfants… Mainly teaching them to call my Larba (my local name) and not “Batouli” (white person), and that high-fives are great but slapping my butt is not!

“Epuise Eau” charade… A girl was helping me put water in my bidon behind my back (they know that I try doing it myself, so she was going behing my back fillig it, when my head was in the well, trying to help me go faster).  We had all the kids cracking up (mainly because it took me 2 times for me to notice)! Then I returned for 2^ndbidon and dropped the yellow “water fetcher” in the well again!

Gender committee 2^nd meeting: chose 3 clubs: English, Scientifille, and Theatre.  Each will meet one wednesday afternoon a month, and will be led by one Togolese teacher and myself.

Thursday

Visit at the CEG from the Gendarmes and their “Chef” or chief.  He pretty much showed up late, then talked a whole bunch about what the kids should and should not be doing (like, playing sports and not stealing etc).  He also touched on the subject of keeping prayers at home, in reference to the incident on Monday.

Devoirs= catch the cheaters! Devoirs is a testing day, as mentioned previously, that tests the students knowledge every week in a different subject.  Well this week, I helped in my 6iemeA class, because of the number, it's exhausting for the professors to watch them all and make sure their eyes stay on their own papers.

That evening, I received a small bite on my foot that itched kind of like a mosquito bite but also hurt...

Friday

After class, got moto to Dapaong. 

Lunch with Sam and Matt (always a treat because we rarely get to see our Mango cluster mates)!She made us Salmon salad brushetta and salad =D so healthy and delicious!

Teacher Training in Dapaong(me= savior?)… apparently I am the new 1^st Reporter for the English Teachers group? I was pretty much targeted the whole meeting because I was the only white person, but let me tell you: Girl stood her ground! One of the other English teachers called me the meeting “savior”.  Someone gave me a ride to the PCV maison and I let him borrow some books from our "library" for a paper he's writing on African Political leaders.

Care package from GMA came with food goodies (mac n cheese, vanilla extract…) and new Keens (?!) ! It was also equipped with 2 bday cards… Gotta love gma ;)

Dinner at Campement (because we were feeling fancy).. hamburgers, fries, and chocolate mousse!!

By the end of the night, that “bite” from the night before had a white pussey center and was swelling around the origination sight...

Saturday

Spent the morning in the WinPang Clinique… the swelling of my foot spread from toes to ankle and the white pussy center of the bite sight was now red/black. 

Lunch with the gang.

Grocery shopped and got gifts for the bday girls with some friends.  Just gimping around... I couldn't wear a shoe by this point, so the Dr had cleaned and wrapped my foot in a compression wrap.  I tied a bandana around it and just hobbled about (getting many people saying, "du courage," and "bon garisment"- have courage and good healing).

Then got back to maison and was sick to my stomach (it could have been the meal I just had or the medicine, not sure).

Another friend was also sick (she was also at clinic with me and turns out she has ameobas and bacterial infection), so while the others went out for pizza (that we put an order in for Monday) and celebrated with the birthday girls, we stayed back and watched Lion King (epic every time, I tell ya)

foot:

leg:

 scorpian:

 

Random:

My host family got 2 new kittens this past week: one on Sunday, the other on Thursday!  When Francoise came home with the first, I asked him the kittens name and he replied, “doux-doux” (pronounced doo-doo, and I believe it’s supposed to mean soft-soft).  Then when he showed me the new one on Thursday, he told me that its name was also “doux-doux”.  When I asked why, he said, so that if one runs away or is stolen, then we will always have a “doux-doux.” 

*** Hope all is well in the States and at everyone's post, here in Togo!!***

And hope all is going well for those who were affected by the hurricane!

oh, and Obama continues!

Livin that village life

Nov. 1, 2012

So this morning, I got ready as usual, put on some panye, ate some leftover pasta from dinner, drank some instant nescafe, and locked up the maison for school.  On Thursdays I usually shadow/help with my counterpart’s 6ieme class at 7am and then have my own 6ieme class at 8am; after which I hang out in the professors lounge and then head home to clean up and get ready for the Marché (which are Mondays and Thursdays in Tami).  This morning, however, as I was exiting the maison courtyard, my host brother, Mamba (or Boris), stopped me and asked, “Tuvaoucommeca?” (You are going where like that?) And I responded, “Au CEG, je sais quetuestmalade, maisil y a les classes pour les autres, commetoujours” (school, I know that you are sick- he has malaria- but there are classes for others still, like usual).  Well, apparently not.  Today is All Saints Day, so no school! But the family complimented my pretty Panye after a good laugh.  We walked to the school just to get out of the house and I saw one of the other professors, who gave me the key to the teacher’s lounge, so here I sit, typing up the latest of “It’s Togo Time”.  It’s funny, last Friday was the Muslim Holiday “Tabaski” (fete of the sheep and birth of Mohamed), and this Thursday it’s the Catholic holiday of the dead. 

Some good books I’ve read and recommend:

“No Hurry to Get Home” by Emily Hahn

It mentions ABQ and Santa Fe! It’s the memoir of a New Yorker Journalist, whom grew up in the 20’s/30’s and traveled many places including The Congo and China.  She’s super sassy and grew up in one of the most interesting times in general, let alone being a well traveled, adventurous female.

“Ishmael: An adventure of the mind and Spirit” by Daniel Quinn

My PCV friends Rachel and William recommended it, and it really gets one thinking about society, creation, and human existence.

I’m currently reading, “Under African Skies: Modern African Stories,” edited by Charles R. Larson.  It’s a collection of short stories from different countries in Africa and is very interesting so far.  Some of the writers are from English speaking Africa, but a few of them are translated from French or Portuguese.  Before each story, the editor gives a bit of detail about the author, many of whom have been incarcerated or exiled due to the content of their material being controversial.  The stories tend to be a bit dark and curious, and many of them like crossing lines between the dead and living.   

Health update:

My bike wounds are nicely scarred over now, and the moto burn is finally closing up! I’ve had to keep a bandage over it for 3 weeks to protect it from dirt and germs.  I should have a nice scar, I suppose.  Ca va aller.  It makes for a good story later.. I could always used the phrase, “you should see the other guy!” And, I look tougher!

Last week I had a head cold but that was over by the weekend.

I ran for the first time since my accidents yesterday! It wasn’t too impressive, but I ran 3 miles; departed at 5:30 am (that way not too many people awake that I have to greet) and was able to see the moonset and sunrise.  It’s approaching harmaton season (windy season- without rain) so the weather is cooler, and was absolutely beautiful for a run. 

Recent accomplishments:

Made Pate du Riz with Sauce d’arachide and Pentade (rice pasta with peanut sauce and guinea fowl).  Rachel (2^nd mama) had me make it with her step by step, from cleaning the rice (it gets rocks and choses in it), to sifting it with water, then boiling, stirring/pounding (the hardest part!), and then forming patties with your hand and a petit gaurd (and it’s hot man!). 

I “epuissédmon eau” (got my own water from the well).  I know this doesn’t sound hard, but it’s a workout (just like stirring and mushing the Pate from above).  Mamba helped me the first time, and I’ve done it once since then.  I have to take this yellow container (similar to a spare gas can-made of plastic), strap it to my bike and bring it to the CEG (where the well is), then I use this “cutoff” yellow container with a string and drop it in the well and pull it up by hand.  Once the container is full, I tie it to the back of my bike with this rubber strap (I bought in Dapaong) and transport it chez moi , unload it in my water storage, and repeat until replenished.  I’m usually good with 4 “bidons” (or yellow containers) for most the week. 

I know I wrote previously about “laveringmesvetements” (washing my clothes-by hand), but I have been paying the girl that the previous volunteer did to do it for me.  However, yesterday, after my run, I not only lavered my sous (no one else can wash your unders, it’s impolite), I decided to also wash the rest of my clothes.  This is after I swept my place, washed dishes, and then after lunch (made some couscous) I fetched water from the well.  SO yesterday, “j’ai fait beacoup de sport” (I did lots of exercise).  Normal, everyday tasks here are a nice workout and it felt good to do on my own (now that my health is back on track!). 

I gutted a fish for the first time.  In the past, I could hardly watch without turning my head, but this time I bought one from the Marché with Rachel and helped cut and clean it.  We made a tomato sauce with it and even put the [good part of] head in! This was actually Monday, when I was having not the best day in the world and Rachel could tell, so she Marché’d with me and we ate snacks, bought tomatoes and stuff and then cooked.  Not every day is going to be the best and I’m thankful for the family that I live with here; they are super supportive and caring (and there’s always someone there, which can be annoying at times, but for the most part is nice).

Other news:

I had a visit from Madame Rose (my EGE advisor/program director).  I was last on her list, of course, but not least.  It was Tuesday, and the day before was my bad day, so I was a bit worried about the lesson plan that I had created, but she loved my class! She was there when I arrived at school at 6:40am, we did the raising of the flag, the students sang and then she had them all face her and she delivered one of her speeches.  And let me tell you, this woman can talk! And when she talks, people listen.  She speaks with such enthusiasm and force; it’s just very empowering.  She addressed the whole school and let them know in more detail why I’m here, how the program has changed from the last volunteer, how they should respect me and participate with me, and how I’m here making enough money to eat (no salary) and all the people and luxuries back home I gave up to be here with them.  It was really nice, especially after my bad day for her to stand up for me in front of everyone (without me asking her to; she had no idea that I had previously had a bad day).  Then she sat in on my class at 7am, and the end of which she thanked my class for being so awesome and cooperative.  Also, when we entered the class, the class Major (lead student) was taking attendance and her eyes were popping out of her head when he started counting above 100! It was hilarious! For us it’s normal now and no big deal.  She was impressed with my ability to keep them active in their learning with a class so numerous.  I mean, as a teacher, you are supposed to circulate, and engage but with that many students, it’s hard to move, let alone circulate!

The afternoon after Madame Rose left, I also had a visit from the PC regional security director, Amos (he’s the go-to guy for Kara and Savannes).  He had never been to my village (I’m guessing he’s new) and so he showed up at my school, we walked to my house and filled out paperwork, then we walked over to Salué the chef. He wasn’t here long but it felt comforting with him getting familiar with my village. 

The tally: scorpians killed= 3 (1 right before I was about to nap, it was under my pillow).  No worries though, apparently the scorpians here aren't deadly; they just hurt a lot (and according to my host brother, they hurt for exactly 2 days).

My dog now helps me teach.  Well, he kinda just follows me then lays down uder a table when we get to school.  At first I was very apprehensive with having him, a dog, at school; but things are pretty laid back here (and he doesn't listen, at all).  Although he has learned that I do NOT like him sleeping on my outside table at night (I would let him sleep inside but he's got insects and dirt all over him, and likes sleeping on my spare lipico pad, and infects it); he now sleeps on the family's table. Well, it's an improvement?

Last Sunday I wanted to bike to a nearby village, Lotogou, for their marche day (and to salue the "soeurs").  The family agreed I should take along my host brother, Mamba, and we agreed to go after the heat of the day.  When it was time to depart, I saw rain clouds approaching... and the family were adament that A) they weren't storm clouds and B) Even it they were, they wouldn't touch near us.  Well, they were wrong.  About halfway through our bike ride, we shook shelter, the two of us and the Church Pastor (whom we picked up along the way), in a roadside boutique.  After about 45 minutes, the rain cleared enough for us to carry on to our destination.  The rest of the route was surreal.  The sky was light but with a after rain darkness about it, and the road was full of running water, reflecting the clouds that were still passing; and I just pedaled on, behind my two Togolese guides: a small-framed 12 yr old boy and a fancy pants man of god, both with smiles as they checked every so often that I was still vertical. 

*************************************************************************************

Note:

Someone brought to my attention that she tried but couldn't comment on my blog and ummmm... Low and behold, I apparently disabled comments to anyone but myself? Sorry guys! So, now comment to your hearts content. 

Miss you all back home!!

And HAPPY BIRTHDAY to all the November babies, including: Bev, PCV Katherine, and PCV Katy!!!

Nearing the End of October!

 18^th October, 2012

Salut my blog people!

Since my last post, much has happened! This includes the beginning of school year, referred to as, “La Rentrée de L’Année Scholaire.”  The first day is mainly for organization, getting on the same page, and getting the students settled into the correct classes.  The students swept the classrooms and the courtyard; the teachers received their teaching schedules; then the teachers had the pupils line up by grade (class) level and did a roll call entry into the rooms (I helped with 3iéme and totally butchered the poor kids names); finally the director and one teacher dealt with those students who weren’t registered on the master list (and thus had no classroom yet), while the other teachers did introductions into each classroom.  My English Teaching Counterpart, Mr. Laré Lamboni, aided me with my introduction, and I pretty much said my name, why I’m here, gave them the schedule for English courses with me, and then I was free to roam the school/village.

Since then, I’ve had several classes, and have come to appreciate the art of teaching; it is no easy job.  I not only teach 4 times a week for 1 hour at a time, but I also co-teach the other 6iéme class (of approx. 76 students) with Mr. Lare at least 3 times a week.  My class has about 90-100 students any given day and can be quite difficult with classroom management (if you can imagine why).  I have to circulate constantly and engage them as much as possible.  It’s also hard to circulate a room with that many students! I wish I still had my camera so that I could take a photo for a visual aid of the overcrowding.  Oh yes, by the way, my camera has taken it’s last photo, unfortunately.  RIP fancy Nikon. 

I also sit down with my teaching counterpart and do lesson planning together.  It’s a great way to combine ideas and stay on the same page.  As a TEFL standard teacher, I have a certain format that I must combine with while following the Togolese school system guidelines.  I have tons of material to help, including a teacher’s copy of the students’ English books (which most Togolese teachers don’t have access to).  Thus, Mr. Lare and Director Ayeva, are quite thrilled to have my help.  A basic lesson plan has a certain heading (level, school, lesson, date, teaching aids and objectives), followed by an outline with: Pre-Activities (warm-ups, like songs or “boncs” or games), Activities (there has to be at least 3, and they should combine different focuses like reading, writing, vocabulary etc), and Post-Activities (warm-downs like songs, and/or homework). 

As an EGE PCV, along with teaching, I need to do extra-curricular activities, and start a Gender Promotion Committee.  I had my first “girls club” meeting yesterday, which was co-facilitated by Mr. Lare, and about 70 girls total from every grade in the CEG (middle school) showed up! We did a PACA activity, where I split them up by class level and they drew maps of the Tami Community.  It was great to see them work together and be creative.  I find the general “exactness” or perfectionist of the Togolese very interesting.  They literally can’t make a line, take notes, or draw a picture, without a ruler! I don’t think we, in the United States, have this patience.  After they finished, I had 2 girls in each group present their groups diagram.  We brainstormed ideas for the group; i.e. themes like science, math, English, sports, soccer days.  I want to do what interests them.  Then we closed by choosing 2 girls to be a part of the Gender Committee.  The Committee will be composed of 1 admin, 2 teachers, myself, 2 girl students, 1 boy student, and 1 representative from the parent/teacher association.  We will meet to discuss gender issues in the community, how to solve/work on them, and various programming that has been and can be done.

Other things I’ve been up to:

I “shadowed” a 2^nd year PCV by the name of Aaron, in his village of Timbou.  This shadowing program has new volunteers paired up with seasoned volunteers (each will follow the other) in order to learn and see how one interacts with the community and how (s)he programs/works.   I was able to get a community (and street food) tour; sat in on 2 women’s groupement meetings, and learned how to make “savon liquide” (liquid soap) in one, and “crème de Neem” (anti-mosquito cream) in the other; and he also gave me advice and pointers on other programming ideas, such as Village Savings and Loan, Animal Husbandry, and Funded Projects (such as building a school).  Overall, I found this program, and Aaron, very helpful! (I also got a hella lotta mosquito bites and got sick again here, health has been a struggle, but I bought some meds and been much better the past 2 weeks!).

I attended the first Club Espoir meeting of the school year.  Well, I rode my bike the 24 km to Dapaong (and back to Tami) and was a little late, but I saw the end! Club Espoir, or Club Hope, is for kids of all ages affected in any way by AIDS/HIV.  This can mean they have it, a family member does, or they are AIDS orphans.  The club does activities with them to take their minds off the “real world” and at the end the kids get a free lunch! This group meets every first Saturday morning of every month.

In Tami, there are two other schools (well 3 now with the commencing of the Lycee Seconde), and I have also visited those schools, met the Directors, and had a tour/meet and greet with the teachers/students.  I hope to work more with those schools as well the CEG.  The Kindergarden, or Jardin D’enfants, seems quite eager to have help; whereas the Ecole Premiere, or Primary School, seemed content of my interest and said I could sit in on a few classes.  I visited the first week, when things were hectic, so they weren’t near as enthusiastic as I had hoped but after the overwhelming Rentrée diminishes, they’ll want me more, I’m sure of it.  Director Ayeva likes to joke that me sitting in the primary school classes will improve my French (sadly, it’s not a joke). 

I organized a group of people (6 Volunteers), a chauffeured van, and a tour-guided trip to the Moba Caves in Nano (village in Savannes).  We were able to climb down into the side of this cliff and see where the Moba people used to seek refuge in times of war.  In the 15^th century, there were tribal wars that caused the people to create a safe place for the women, children, and elderly to retreat to, complete with food, animals, first aid, and protection.  Back then, they used to climb down on vines, but today there are metal caged stairs.  They built food storage vase-like items from mud and earth.  They grew Aloe plants for those injured who couldn’t leave the safety of the caves.  They had a fresh water source from a geyser that cascades from the side of the cliff.  And the elderly made and stored a poison, used on darts, which could kill a man upon skin contact, supposedly.  After our trip up and down this cliff, we were invited to eat at the house of out tour guide, and ex-homologue of RPCV Dillon (who has already COS’ed). 

I had the Vet give my dog, Rocco, his annual “Rage”, or Rabies, shot.  Now I just gotta find some flea-be-gone and doggie waterless shampoo (he HATES water—tried washing him several times and it’s always a task).  I usually have to sneak water on him, let him run away for awhile, then continue this water process until whatever it is that he rolled in has diminished in smell/sight.  I once bathed him completely, with the help of one of my host moms, Rachel; we locked him in my bathing/latrine area and had our way with him (soap and all!).  Then 2 days later, we strolled up 30 minutes after I let him out of my living chambers, all covered in some kind of animal droppings... later he decided to sneak past me and lay on my spare lipico pad... This PCV was not happy with him for awhile.  I may have even told him aloud my thoughts on how I'm the only thing keeping the villagers from eating him... I know, sounds terrible, but in my defense, I continually have offers of gifts, new puppies and money in exchange for his meat (and when he's rubbing his feces honey all over my repose bed, it seemed all too welcoming a thought).  He's recently won my heart back with his sad little eyes and crocked doggie smile though, so no worries.    

In other, negative, news:

As read above, the camera has broken for good (or until I get it looked at in the states).  =(

My stomach issues were pretty bad, but better now—so this is now positive! (just thought I’d throw some positive at ya!)

The other day I fell on my bike, on my way to Naki-Ouest and got pretty banged up.  I had a sprained wrist and many cuts.  I was taken care of by my host mother, Rachel, and host father, Francois, who came speeding on his moto with first-aid supplies.  The story is kind of hilarious actually.  I sat by the side of the road, being cleaned and bandaged like a little kid, trying to explain how my wrist is NOT to be moved, taking the pain of the first aid treatment, and laughing about funny it all was.  Then they insisted on washing my shirt because I insisted on continuing with Rachel to the Marché.  So there I sat, full of bandages, in a sports bra on the side of the road, while my shirt was being washed, and my belly cleaned up (I definitely belly flopped when I fell).  Oh, life in Africa.

The next day, I got off my zed-man’s moto in Dapaong, and as he helped me put on my backpack (my wrist was ace-bandaged from the sprain), I burned myself on his exhaust.  So then I has bruises, scrapes, a sprained wrist, and a 2^nd degree burn on my calf.  

So this week, no hanging out with the little ones until my wounds are better.  Everything is actually good but my darn calf.  The wound doesn’t want to close up; but with patience, time, and care it will.  One just has to be super careful with all the bacteria, dirt, flies, and insects here; infection is all to easy to happen. 

…So I began typing up this blog entry after my morning classes and before the Parent/Teacher Association meeting… After which, well, let’s just say that when you are dealing with people’s money and kids, you are bound to have some conflict.  For those of you that remember my job at Kids Quest, I can already attest to this lesson.  I’m just thankful that I’m not the Director; it seems like a tough job here in Tami.  I give the guy credit for taking all that heat and dealing with all that he has on his plate!

To wrap things up: HAPPY BIRTHDAY to all the OCTOBER babies!! This includes, but is not limited to: Gretchen, Wawa, Patrick, and Kelsey!

Q & A

Q & A Time:

So first of all, I want to apologize once again for the lack of communication… I’ve realized after flipping through my planner that I’ve missed quite a few birthdays (including family)! I hope no one takes it personally and understands the situation! I love you all but it’s just hard right now.  Maybe when I get more settled and organized, I can be more on top of things (as in next birthday for those that have passed!).  When I return to the States, we shall do some extra celebrating then =)

Now back to the purpose of this post:

I wanted to make a space for questions people may have, and if they’re not too personal, then I can answer them for all to see (or I can email you if it’s something not too kosher for the eyes of the masses).

Here are a few starter questions that I’ve been asked:

1) How hard is to bathe/get water and how often can/does one bathe here?

My village shares a huge well that is by the CEG (or middle school), where I will be teaching, and usually when the family that I live with sends one of the kids for water for the family, they also get h2o for me.  A lot of people here bathe about 3 times a day (am, after repose in the afternoon, and before bed); and it also depends on the season.  I have heard many things about the seasons but won’t divulge details until I experience things for myself (otherwise it’s hearsay and what kind of blogger would I be if I wrote such things?!).  I usually bathe well before bed, wash my face in the am, and lightly bathe the important choses in the afternoon.  Although lately I’ve been running in the morning, so I’ve been showering well after that and lightly the other 2 times.  I haven’t showered with any HCN’s (Host Country Nationals) so I can’t speak for them but, I don’t use much water when I bathe here with my bucket and scooper.  It’s amazing the small amount of water I can use to fully clean myself and my [small amount of] hair.  Even when I go to the Work Station in Dapaong now, I turn off the water when I’m soaping up just because it doesn’t feel right to have it running while not using it. 

2) What are some things people can send? And what’s your address?

My new address (directly to my region, not going to the South first) is:

PCV Kristina Thomsen

Corps De La Paix

B.P. 291

Dapaong, Togo

West Africa

I would love letters from anyone that’s bored enough to send them! It’s not too easy to print pictures here, so if you’re feeling generous (and even more bored), one can send a lonely girl [without power] in Africa some pictures of home! My sister Gretchen has already been getting familiar with the mailing system between Togo and the USA; she has sent me 2 letters and a box for my birthday (some much needed sheets and pictures of my New Mexican Furr Friends-and can’t forget the dried green chili)!

Maybe picture books for the kids? English, French, Spanish... Whatever language you please, if it has a pretty picture, it will amaze them.

Like I said, I appreciate the letters and news from home just as much as a packet of tuna ;) And we all know how random I am so sending something not useful but unusual would probably make my day.

And expect things to take awhile to get to me, the mail system here isn’t the greatest.  Just an FYI. 

3) Do I have a phone? How do I charge it without power? Do I get reception in village? What’s my number (more of the Togolese asking this—PCV’s know what I mean)?

Yes, I do have a cellphone that I purchased through the Peace Corps with the Togocell cellphone company.  I have a solar charger that I figured out when I first got here, then I killed it somehow, so I’m working on that.  I have 2 batteries that I bought to interchange, and on Market days here in Tami (Mondays/Thursdays) there’s a guy who I can pay 100 Cefa to charge each.  Otherwise I can charge it at the tech house in Dapaong if I happen to go that weekend.  My cellphone Resau (reception) isn’t too great (as some of you have experienced), so eventually I plan to get a new phone that has a dual sim with Togocell and Moov (there’s a Moov tower here now).  Reception in Dapaong is much better so any lengthy calls should probably wait until I make it one weekend in Dapaong.  And if you email me (and I know and like you- or you’re family) then I can give you my number; I shall not be reckless and just post such things online ;)

A pointer on the calling/texting: Using an online service such as reptel or skype can prove cheaper.  I feel that Gretchen is the expert on this, so if she wants to add, please do (nudge- nudge).  And the country code for Togo is +228.   

4) Where is Togo? Where is my post? How hard is it to travel there?

Well hopefully anyone reading this can use google ;) But just in case, Togo is located in West Africa (thus the mailing address above), along the Ivory Coast: To the East of Ghana, South of Burkina Faso, and West of Benin.  I’d say it’s approximate to the size of Idaho in the United States, but I’m no professional.  My post is a small village called Tami.  It’s located in the northern most region of Togo, known as Savannes.  I’m about 24 km from Dapaong, the regional capitol, and about 10km from Ghana.  The population is about 850 residents, and it seems to be mostly children! And it’s not hard to travel to and around here, just gotta do your research.  The plane ticket here can be pricey but once here it’s super cheap to live and get around! To get throughout the country one can take either a charter bus (more expensive) or a Bush taxi (which they fill passed capacity so be confortable getting close to those around you).  To get to and from villages, motos are best (guys with motos are known as “Zedmen”).  To get around villages or cities, one can walk or bike mostly.

5) What will I be doing here?

I am an EGE (English and Gender Education) Volunteer, which is a new program stemming off from a previous program known as GEE (Girls Education Extension).  GEE PCV’s worked with the school and community but EGE will actually be teaching in the Togolese school system, using the TEFL techniques we learned our 2 months at Stage (training).  Some GEE Volunteers have taught (are teaching) but most worked with after school programs and women’s groups.  My Stage is the new experiment, yay us! I’ve been assigned to 6ieme (6^th grade) English, which can have anywhere from 50-100 students.  All PCV’s have been trained to teach only in the CEG (middle school), but though we cannot formally teach, we can program with the other ages.  We have been introduced to programs such as MAP (Men As Partners), PACA (Participatory Analysis for Community Action), Scientifille (girls science program), and countless others to work with the youth and the community.  We also have people known as homologues (counter parts—I don’t know which is English anymore), who work in our sector of interest to help as a guide and gateway into the community. 

Since the school year has been pushed back until October 8th, I’ve been working on getting to know my community through conversation, attending market days, biking/walking/running around, and mainly observation.  I’ve visited several places in the surrounding areas that may be of interest besides the school system (since most people seem not to be in town right now- I’ve heard that people go to Ghana for work when school isn’t in session), like the Spanish Missionaries, and the neighboring [bigger] town of Naki Ouest.  I plan to meet with the orphanage sisters (they take in aids/malaria orphans and kids at risk for trafficking) and also there’s this program about 4km from here called Bonne Fondee that helps kids not in school find jobs.  I’m not sure if I will end up finding work with any of those places but it’s nice to touch base with established places and be able to help where I’m needed (plus right now it’s a nice bike ride, while not the dry season).  I also need to get out and do a household survey to get to know my community better, and meet their needs.  

SO there's the start... Ask/respond away! =D

Official PCV, Officially at Post

Dimanche (Sunday), Le 23 Septembre 2012

I have officially been done with training a whole week, and been an official Peace Corps Volunteer for 2 weeks.  Right now I’m sitting in the Peace Corps Work Station in Dapaong, my nearest major city in the Region of Savannes and have power for the first time in a whole week!  I have been at my post for the past week but came to Dapaong (by moto it’s roughly a 30 min ride) to do some Marché (market) shopping for things that I can’t buy in the smaller town Marché's.  I was joined by a bunch of other new pcv’s also stocking up their new abodes and then later some seasoned pcv’s celebrating two birthdays within the group.  Twas a great weekend, until I got sick last night… kept awaking with fluids flowing from both ends. It wasn’t the most pretty experience I’ve ever had but it’s just an addition to my life’s experiences.  Most everyone is returning to their village posts but I’m staying to get some testing done to make sure it’s nothing serious.  Might just be amoebas or some other parasite. Yummy.   I have my moto guy (and new friend) Harvee bringing me back to the clinic first thing in the morning so that I could be back to my village by Marche time (starts picking up about noon).  Marche days in Tami are Monday/Thursday; Naki-Ouest (neighboring, bigger town) Tuesday/Friday; Nanergou Thursday/Sunday; and Dapaong Wednesday/Saturday.  Life around here pretty much revolves around Marche days, crops, and school. 

 

So besides this most recent [medical] set back, I have had actually had quite the good and productive time at post.  All new PCV’s left the training tech houses early Friday morning (Sept 14^th) and I got to my post around 5:30pm the following day.  The Savannes crew stays the night in a town called Konte´ the first day on road so that we aren’t arriving to our posts when it’s super dark (the roads are tough enough to travel during the daylight).  Then because I’m so far north, I’m either last or second last to get dropped off; and getting each Volunteer to their respective homes in the middle of small villages takes quite some time (also taking into account unloading time and pit stops).  We tried to drop off my buddy, Winter, in Yambout before me (she was last during post visit), but the road to her was flooded and thus the driver (Michel) took me to my post next and she stayed the night in the Dapaong Work Station until the road cleared the next day.

I spent my first day in Tami cleaning and rearranging [hard core].  Since the program changed from GEE to EGE and we are now actual teachers in the school system, while still respectively promoting gender equality, our communities are now paying for our housing instead of the Peace Corps, and so I got a down grade from 3 to 2 rooms.  It will suck to cook in the adjoined rooms because it will get hot, especially during dry season, but I think the move helped my host family (landlord) transition and community become a happier experience.  Appeasing the locals is probably better than being selfish and picky any day.  Plus, my host father, Francois, recently married a second wife, Rachel, and so the family was low on space.  There would be a lingering feeling of guilt if I hadn’t given up the “kitchen/dining” area.  Plus, as a bonus, I had the help of Rachel in cleaning and rearranging (she was more than happy to accept the new room in exchange for helping me)! She even killed a lizard that had been laying eggs all over my place.  I’m not one to kill things (besides spiders and roaches) but apparently having lizards in the house isn’t good because they are dirty and can carry diseases (plus they poop on yours walls!).  Rachel is hard core, I like her a lot.  She speaks 2 local dialects, French and a bit of English; she’s lived in Burkina Faso and different places around Togo, and she’s a Couturieuse (female tailor).  I hate to make the 1^st wife jealous but I connect and can communicate with Rachel better (the 1^st wife only speaks Moba).  So by the end of Sunday, my first official full day in Tami, I had my house become much more of a cozy home =)

The next day, was Marche´ Monday, and I started out my doing some “sous” laundry and then walking around the marche aimlessly with the kids (also purchased some produce and got some free tchuckpa, which is a local alcohol made from corn/millet) until Christie (the PCV who I’m replacing at sight) made an appearance.  She showed up with seaweed salad (it was tuna avocado rolls but they broke during transit) and we ate and chatted.  She didn’t stay for too long but in that time I was able to ask her some great questions, she was able to see the transformation of “our home” and we were both able to grab a drink at the town bar (seems like most happenings/socializing happens around the bars, tchuck stands and Marché).  I also found out today that I will be teaching 6ieme (6^th grade) this school year! That’s the level that I taught/practiced with during training. 

On Tuesday I went with Rachel, a velo (by bike) about 8km to the neighboring town of Naki-Ouest.  It was not only a great bonding trip, but informational and fun! I proved myself tough to Rachel by not stopping once along the ride there or back, like the “other yovos” would have.  We were able to visit all the schools, and I was able to meet the middle school Director, whom insisted on my working/helping in Naki as well as Tami.  We then went over to the local dispenseur (clinic), where I held some day old babies in the “mommy ward”, and then met the Major (or head nurse) over on the sick/vaccination [everything else] side.  By that point we were starved and picked up some street soja (tofu usually served with a spicy piment sauce) and bread and went over to Emmanuel’s house (he’s the HCN- host country national- that has been the counterpart for just about all the PCV’s in Naki Ouest).  We had some beer and more food (my fav- pate with sauce d’arachide) delivered for us while we chatted.  Next we explored the BIG market, where we ate this frozen milk (like yogurt ice cream), drank some Bee-Sap (juice made from Hibiscus plants), bought some produce, drank some more free Tchuckpa, and then met up with Francois who gave us money to get a beer on our bike ride home.  Also apparently the Ghanian border is about the same distance that we rode today but the opposite direction; so there was a whole Ghana section to the Naki Market.  The home ride in the dark was beautiful while under the stars with lightening gracing the non-rained filled sky.  When we got home, the kids in the compound helped me in as usual, taking my bike over to my room and carrying any bag I had.  Twas a grand day!

Wednesday, I woke up early for a bike ride with Fatima (the orphan girl who did Christie’s laundry and whom I have money to pay her school fees during my service here) over to the Spanish Missionaries house.  It was a good 30 minute ride each way, filled with lush farms, children waving, adults salue’ing (surprised by my Moba skills), the occasional moto, and random animal crossings.  Rocko, the dog that I inherited from Christie, followed us the entire way there.  That dog is serious about being a “Guardian” to his white folk.  The missionary grounds were stunning, with a Jardin d’enfants (pre-school) on grounds, plenty of livestock, a vast area of farmland, and even homes on property for those Togolese hired by them.  The missionary that I talked to told me that I spoke French with a Spanish accent (odd, but a compliment?), and apparently this year marks his 40^th year in Togo! He was quite busy and surprised by my visit, so Fatima showed me around and then we departed.  On our way down the path, we ran into this French writer who is staying with the missionaries and is writing a book on the one that I met.  The rest of the day was filled with rain (I got in from my ride literally 8 minutes before the downpour that filled all the buckets in the compound), popcorn, and some home decorating/reading. 

The following day, was Marché Thursday in Tami.  I was getting my breakfast together when I received a visit from another English Professor, Monsieur Larri Lamboni, who informed me that last night the government decided to push the school year start date back from this coming Monday to Monday October the 8^th (3 weeks away) due to teacher salary negotiations.  I have mixed emotions about this: the poor kids are going to be behind, and I kind of would like to just get things rolling; but at the same time, now that I have a set level, I have more time to do some better planning.  Monsieur Larri also caught me up on any other school news, the whereabouts/plans of my homologue the director, and the fact that Monsieur Larri just found out that he is also taking up half the 6ieme level English (because there are so many of them!).  The rest of the day was pretty uneventful.  I visited the Marché and wasn’t feeling it, so hung out in the courtyard in front of Francois’ pharmacie with the Veterinarian , some kids, and a brother of Francois. At the end of his brother’s visit, he asked me for my digits, I said I didn’t know them, and he came back with 3 heads of corn… I’m not sure if I should be worried that I accepted them? The kids and I drew corn people on them before eating them with dinner. 

And we are back to Friday where I called my moto man, Harvee, to take me to Dapaong.